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 Post subject: Closing Gaps- fish glue
PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 1:06 am 
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I just did my bindings in fish glue and a few things moved. I have a couple gaps to close. I have a tire inner-tube wrapped tightly around the box. I'm thinking a hair dryer, some waxed v-shape wedges and a little water should release and allow the binding to move and close the gaps. Any additional advise?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 1:18 am 
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No advice, but a warning. Trying to squeeze gaps closed with water and heat can cause fish glue to wick into the endgrain and leave ugly stains that can't be removed. This is why I've switched back to hide.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 2:29 am 
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I thought about releasing it and working with titebond, but then again I anticipated these troubles which is why I used fish glue. I always have trouble with gaps, probably due to overly complicated binding schemes for my skill set :/



These users thanked the author fingerstyle1978 for the post: CraigG (Sun Jul 27, 2014 1:54 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 7:13 am 
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I seal my binding channels with a light wipe if shellac to begin with and then use fish glue. Any small gaps are quickly fixed by gently heating area with a heat gun, pressing the gap closed and blowing it cool for about 10 seconds. No water added.

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These users thanked the author Doug Balzer for the post: EddieLee (Sat Aug 02, 2014 8:23 am)
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 12:00 pm 
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Fingerstyle1978 don't feel bad. I've only put binding on three instruments. Have yet to get one right. Still trying though.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 12:07 pm 
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Lonnie J Barber wrote:
Fingerstyle1978 don't feel bad. I've only put binding on three instruments. Have yet to get one right. Still trying though.


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I feel you man, this is my 3rd First Build lol.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 12:09 pm 
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I bought a cool and fancy channel cutter. Has yet to be delivered so I have no excuses now. I'm sure with time and attempts we'll get it right. Good luck buddy.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 1:11 pm 
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Kewl, what channel cutter did you get?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 1:16 pm 
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The offered by Ken Cierpilowski at KMG


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 1:18 pm 
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There's a video by a buddy Dave Bagwell on YouTube. Looks super easy


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 3:40 pm 
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Lonnie J Barber wrote:
There's a video by a buddy Dave Bagwell on YouTube. Looks super easy


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I looked for it but couldn't find anything.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 3:57 pm 
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Try kenethmichaelguitars under channel cutter. It's Ken Cierpilowski's store website


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 6:21 pm 
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Lonnie J Barber wrote:
Try kenethmichaelguitars under channel cutter. It's Ken Cierpilowski's store website


Hi Lonnie,

Do you mean this one?

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/bi ... chine.html



I use a home made version of that. Has worked well for me and the ones he sells are much better than my effort, I'm sure. I love that it's infinitely adjustable, so no need to invest in a huge set of bearings. I am going to make a "tower" system sometime soon though. Just to compare, really.

Can't see why anyone would hold the router in hand no matter what guide they're using when you can just make one of these! The chances of tipping the router seem high. I feel bad for the people who use the little Dremel guide Stewmac sell and get back results. (I know some people seem to get away with it.)


Last edited by Nick Royle on Fri Aug 01, 2014 6:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 6:25 pm 
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That's it that's Dave Bagwell demonstrating it. Mine came ups today. Just opened the top and looked in. Not ready to use it just yet. So I'll leave it all together till I'm ready for it. Dave speaks very highly of it. He's a great craftsman so I trust his word. Much better the the Dremel and Stewmac gizmo I'm using now.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 6:27 pm 
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Lonnie J Barber wrote:
Much better the the Dremel and Stewmac gizmo I'm using now.

Ha! I just edited my message to mention that gizmo seconds after you posted!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 6:30 pm 
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You know I gave nearly half as much for that stupid gizmo as this whole system cost. Don't let me mislead you Stewmac is a great supplier but expensive as all get out. I still buy things from them . But try to limit it to a minimum


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 6:45 pm 
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Yeah, I like Stewmac but don't get to order from them much due to shipping and import taxes, etc.
That gizmo had its uses, I'm sure, but for a standard binding job, I can't see why anyone would choose it over a KMG style jig.



These users thanked the author Nick Royle for the post: Lonnie J Barber (Fri Aug 01, 2014 9:02 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 8:02 pm 
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Lonnie

I have used that jig on 4 guitars so far without a mishap. I find it helps to make at least 2 passes - the first one (or more) to remove material and the last one a very careful finish pass. The height along the side is easy to set because it is just the depth on the router, but distance in along the top or back is much more difficult to make small adjustments on. I made a mark on the base and a dozen closely spaced marks on the sliding member so I can make the very small adjustment in and out with more certainty. I have had good luck with a coat of shellac before routing.

Ed Minch


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 9:06 pm 
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Ed sounds like you know how to use it pretty well. I cut the channels on one guitar and one baritone Ukelele. Have to admit that my second stab at it was a wee bit better then my first. As I learned. But I got this one now it's pretty hard to screw it up. I'll probably figure out how to do it though. Lol hoping this next build comes out much better.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 9:07 pm 
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I definatly decided to go the shellac route also.


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